100% Black Polyester DTG Printing with Epson F2100 and OEM Ink is Possible

Printing BLACK 100% Polyester with the Epson F2100 and OEM Ink

100% Black Polyester DTG Printing with Epson F2100 and OEM Ink is PossiblePRINTING 100% POLYESTER WITH THE EPSON F2100

We just got our new Epson F2100 DTG printer in for testing and wanted to show you what you can do with the Image Armor DTG pretreatment products.  We are excited to report our first tests and we started with 100% Black polyester fabrics.

We took a Sport-Tek ST340 Black polyester shirt and pretreated it with Image Armor ULTRA. We heat pressed the pretreatment completely dry and then printed the polyester shirt as we would any other 100% cotton garment. We did increase the white underbase from 0% to a 20% increase in white (which may not have been needed) and then let the printer do its thing (We used the highest quality setting for the WHITE and the Color layers). After printing we cured the inks using extremely LIGHT pressure on a regular heat press and cured the ink at a full 338F for 90 seconds (using a kraft cover sheet). I did actually allow the print to sit under the heat press for a few minutes prior to pressing.

The direct to garment print we got was INCREDIBLE looking. White and red ink on a black 100% polyester shirt. I love the stark contrast of those colors, but what was even more striking was the print in the picture here has already been washed 4 times already. FOUR. 

There is virtually NO degradation on the print at all. The shirt looks incredible and will continue to wash incredible due to the Image Armor technology that can be used for 100% cotton and some polyester fabrics. So, if anyone tells you you need a special pretreatment, special ink, or special printer, don’t believe them (though we do discuss below the fact that the Image Armor pretreatments ARE NOT a magic silver bullet for polyester printing)! It is possible and this test print proves it.

We will be exploring the best settings for doing this type of polyester printing with a conveyor dryer to help you achieve similar results minus the heat press marks (coming soon) as well as best practices for using heat presses to avoid press mark issues.

Now, we will preface this article with a disclaimer. You will NOT be able to do ALL polyester fabrics. There are NO MAGIC SILVER BULLETS when it comes to DTG and polyester printing. Dye migration is still an extremely pesky issue we will have to deal with when DTG printing (for a short while longer). So, doing RED colored polyester shirts will still be elusive. Even some LIGHTER colored shirts may react adversely with the pretreatment when applied and heated. This is usually related to an interaction of the dyes and the pretreatment. So, a lot of testing may be in order to find certain brands and colors that WILL work for you and the Image Armor ULTRA project. However, BLACK polyester will be one of the EASIEST 100% polyester shirts to print (depending on the brand and style # used).

But, with this test we end up showing that if you own an Epson F2100 printer with OEM inks, you CAN print polyester TODAY.


RTP Apparel Utilizing Image Armor Technology with the New M&R Maverick DTG Printer is a Production Machine

There were some exciting new developments that were unveiled at the 2019 Printing United (formerly known as SGIA) in Dallas during the October 23rd-25th 2019 show. M&R showcased their newest Direct To Garment printer the Maverick. This new DTG printer had some very unique and new additions that would appear to help propel direct to garment printing to higher productivity outputs. The addition to heat presses in the printer to “prepress” the shirts prior to printing as well as what appeared to be quartz heating elements on either side of the print head carriage helped add to the production capabilities of this unique printer.

When RTP Apparel was added to the mix, the Maverick became a real production output machine. RTP Apparel requires NO PRETREATING but should be heat pressed prior to printing. Since the new M&R Maverick does this in the machine for a few seconds prior to printing, true PICK PRINT CURE productivity in DTG can now be achieved. 

As of the time of this blog article, there were no direct information on the new Maverick available on the web. But, the short video below definitely gives an idea of how this machine can be used in DTG to benefit certain shops by streamlining the entire production process.


To What Degree Do Different Shirts Really Affect My DTG Printing?

Direct To Garment printing should be easy, right? Just load the graphic, the shirt, and press the PRINT button. But anyone who has ever done DTG printing knows that there is a LOT more to it than just that. Even though there are a lot of moving parameters in DTG printing, they can be overcome and tamed. You just need to have a little knowledge working on your side to tame the DTG beast.

It seems that 80% of all DTG printing problems relate back to improper pretreatment, or preparation, of the shirt prior to printing. Pretreating is the "foundation" of your DTG house. A poor pretreating job results in a poor print. But, what kind of impact does the foundation of your pretreatment job, the actual T-Shirt itself, do to your DTG print?

To explore this a little further, we utilized a new Wedge Step Test developed for the Viper MAXX pretreatment machine, but this can easily be recreated on many of the pretreatment machines on the market. The Wedge Step Test allows you to print an image across a wide range of pretreatment applications. Think of it as several columns of pretreatment across the shirt. But each individual column is set to a differing amount of pretreatment. You might start at 10 grams on the left and increase it by 5 grams in each column. The far right column of pretreatment might end up being 35 grams. 

This is exactly what we did with our Viper MAXX and Image Armor pretreatments. 

This allows us to take a finished shirt that we want to print on and explore how differing levels of pretreatments and different print settings react with the pretreatment applied to the shirt. This means we can find the MOST optimal amount of pretreatment for our pretreat used, the shirt, and ink sets for that particular DTG printer. By analyzing a white block that is printed horizontally across the pretreated Wedge Steps, we can see how the opacity increases. The more pretreatment at a particular ink setting being printed should get more opaque (more white) as it is printed on increasingly more pretreatment. At some point there will be NO increase in opacity between a Wedge Step. This would then indicate the optimal amount of pretreatment for that shirt for that particular pretreatment and DTG printer ink settings.

We decided to duplicate the Wedge Step Test on 3 different shirts. In this article we are not going to name the specific shirts, but we labeled them Shirt 1, Shirt 2 and Shirt 3. We pretreated each shirt with our Wedge Step Test document on the Viper MAXX (making this test super easy) and then printed on an Epson F2000 a white bar at the default LEVEL 2 setting for white ink and then the maxed out LEVEL 3 white (all without any additional white ink deposited).


You could say that this was already commonly known. But let's take a look at our graphic showing all 3 shirts and the WEDGE STEP TEST with the white bar printed across it. Remember that all factors EXCEPT THE SHIRT were exactly the same. (Clicking on the image above will bring up the full resolution of the image so you can more easily see the differences in pretreatment used).

Please note that on the F2000 the LEVEL 2 was the SINGLE PASS white and the LEVEL 3 was a DOUBLE PASS white. 

With all parameters being the same, you can see the varying amounts of pretreatment from 10-11g on the far left and increasing by 5 grams until we hit 35 grams (for a 14"x14" area) on the right side of the shirt. There is an OBVIOUS difference in how the white looks on the shirts.

First, a single pass of white will not look nearly as well as a double pass of white. However, printing both a single pass and double pass side by side like this allows us to see varying differences and qualities that allow us to select which pretreatment amount and ink settings will yield us the best print FOR A PARTICULAR SHIRT STYLE and COLOR.

It can be seen in our initial print test that there was a HUGE variance in the quality of the white box printed. The worst SHIRT required almost 30-35 grams on the double pass white to look great. The best shirt was somewhere in the 10-15 gram range. This means on the best shirt, SHIRT 3,  that any pretreatment application above 15 grams would have been a waste of material. 

Wedge Step Test for PretreatmentTHE CONCLUSION
The basic conclusion of this test opened many more questions, but revealed one thing. It is that the brand and style of shirt can play a HUGE impact on the final product that you produce. The better shirt was able to get a fantastic print with just 10-15 grams of pretreatment applied (SHIRT 3). The worst of the three shirts required 30-35 grams of pretreatment and still did not give as good a final print (SHIRT 2). This means we would either need to increase the pretreatment amount even more, potentially making the shirt even stiffer than normal and opening the doors to serious discoloration or burning of the shirt, and/or increase the amount of ink applied to achieve the same look as the best print by SHIRT 3. 

This basically means that you might save some money on a cheaper shirt, but you will end up spending more on ink and pretreatment to make the print look better. Less ink, less pretreatment means a softer looking shirt that costs you less BUT still looks great. The interesting thing here was that SHIRT 2, the worst of our three shirts tested, was NOT a cheaper shirt, which we found extremely interesting.

Knowing the results from this test equals more money in your pocket - and hopefully more repeat business from happy customers.

The Pretreatment Dance - an article about using the right amount of DTG pretreatment - Brian Walker

The Pretreatment Dance

The Pretreatment Dance – What is the Right Amount of DTG Pretreatment?

The Pretreatment Dance - an article about using the right amount of DTG pretreatment - Brian Walker

A very often asked question in Direct To Garment printing is “How much pretreatment do I need to apply to the shirt?”. For the new DTG printer (and those who’ve printed for a while) this is a very good question. Those asking the question are often frustrated by my response – “It Depends”. 

To help understand how much pretreatment that needs to be applied, we wrote an article for Printwear Magazine in December of 2018. It should be a required read for anyone starting out in DTG printing. 

See the entire article here.

100% Red Polyester DTG printing with Image Armor ULTRA

100% Red Polyester Printing with Image Armor ULTRA

100% Red Polyester Printing with Image Armor ULTRA


We've been hearing a lot lately about this pretreatment, this ink, etc. that will allow us to print on polyester fabrics. For the last 4 years Image Armor pretreatments have allowed this to be accomplished. Fortunately with over the past several years we've had additional advancements with inks that also helps make printing on 100% polyester fabrics easier.

Yes, Virginia, That's Red 100% Polyester
We are working on a series of posts / information to help people be able to print on 100% polyester easier with the Image Armor ULTRA pretreatment. The beauty of this is that there is NO NEED for additional pretreatments to accomplish this process. Image Armor has been able to accomplish a cross platform of fabric from 100% Cotton to 100% polyester printing with A SINGLE PRETREATMENT. Even on RED polyester - which everyone knows is the worst possible candidate for DTG printing and white ink.

So, What Did We Do?
First, we utilized the Gildan 64000 100% polyester shirts. These shirts work well for certain DTG printing as other brands also may work. You'll have to do your OWN testing and experimentation as with ANY procedure to find what works best in your shop. We are only providing this information as a gateway - a starting point - for you to begin your polyester pretreating endeavors.

Viper MAXX pretreatment machine100% POLYESTER RED DTG PRINTING

  • We pretreated with Image Armor ULTRA Ready To Use pretreatment.
  • We printed with the Gildan 64000 100% polyester shirt.
  • We pretreated the shirt with the Viper MAXX pretreatment machine (a setting of 60 for Fluid Application on the MAXX)
  • We applied approximately 30 grams of pretreatment to the shirt (for a 14" x 14" area)
  • We heat pressed  using a Stahl's Hotronix Air Fusion. First we hover cured for 1 minute about 1/4" off the shirt @ 265F. Then Heat pressed at 20psi for 20 seconds, let steam out, then repressed again for 20 seconds.
    • We printed on the Epson F2000
    • We printed using Image Armor F-SERIES inks (though you can also use OEM inks)
    • We set the driver settings to
      • Print Quality for White - Level 2
      • Print Quality for CMYK - Level 3
      • Bumped the white laydown up to 55% (additional white ink printed)
      • Set it to a level 5
  • Curing the Shirt
    • Hover the heat press over the wet ink for 1 minute with a distance of 1/4" off the shirt.
    • Heat pressed the shirt on the lowest pressure using a Stahl's Hotronix at 265F. We pressed 3 cycles of 30 seconds each.

Washing the shirt was done on medium temperature water with detergent, but for drying it was only tumble dried - NEVER HOT AIR DRY THE SHIRTS. This will prematurely break down the ink film.

You can see in our photo to the right here that we are 7 washes into the process and the image still looks great and virtually no breakdown on the ink film.  There was a significant amount of "boxing" from the pretreatment on the shirt prior to washing. This did washout after the first wash or two. We know that many people will balk at this because you can't give a customer a shirt with the pretreatment box on it. We understand. However, this is the option at the moment for printing on RED polyester. On a black shirt you will not see the box as visibly or at all. We wanted to show the WORST case scenario here with a RED polyester shirt.

The closeup picture (at the top of the page) show the actual printed quality much better. Not only did we not get any real dye migration the print still looks great. We are continually working on doing additional testing but you'll be able to see that the print still looks good. Additional heat press cycles of 4 or 5 cycles might be more advantageous than just pressing the three times that we did here. This will allow the ink to "set" a little better and most likely give a longer product life cycle.

Printing on 100% polyester has been able to be done for years now, but there is still no magic bullet that gets rid of all the current issues associated with polyester printing (dye migration, pretreatment boxing, etc). However, it is possible to successfully complete the process as we've shown here in our example.

A little care in pretreating and printing with additional in house testing by DTG shops that want to print polyester will find that this information will be a good starting point.

It's not just the inks or pretreatments that make 100% polyester printing a possibility. It is actually a combination of many factors that go beyond ink and pretreatment - the process.  So, if anyone tells you polyester printing can only be done with their printer, with only their inks sets, only their pretreatments.... they are lying to you for one reason or another. If anyone tells you they are the only ones that will let you DTG 100% polyester they're giving you a line of BS.

We wanted to show it is possible and has been for several years utilizing the Image Armor pretreatments. Can you do it with other pretreatments? Maybe. But we can do 100% cotton or 100% polyester with a single pretreatment.

If you need to purchase Image Armor ULTRA you can find a dealer nearest you on our DISTRIBUTOR page.





DTG Tips and Tricks PT Tube Holder

Image Armor DTG Tips & Tricks – Pretreatment Tube Holder

Direct To Garment Tips & Tricks - Pretreatment Tube Holder

Most people just open their pretreatment container, stick the supply tube for the PT machine into the container and forget about it. But often times these tubes are curled and will want to "pop" or flop out of the pretreatment solution. So what is a Direct To Garment printer to do?

Simple. Make a DIY pretreatment tube holder in a short time that will keep your pretreatment supply tube in place, submerged and keep your pretreatment cleaner (no lint, shirt fibers, or dust and dirt). Watch our DTG Tips & Tricks video to see what and how we did it.

What Do These Two Items Have In Common?

Vanilla Frosting and Pepsi Max

What do these two items have in common? Vanilla Frosting and a DTG print? The answer might surprise you.

  • 9 Million metric tons of it are produced each year (estimated)
  • It can be found in hydro-thermal veins
  • It is odorless
  • The exterior of the Saturn V rocket was covered in it
  • It is resistant to discoloration under ultraviolet light
  • It is used in skin care and cosmetic products
  • It can often be found in most red candy
  • It is used to create superhydrophilicity…think self cleaning glass – where water is incapable of sitting on it.
  • It is also used in sunscreen
  • It is not flammable
  • You’ve eaten it and used it in many various forms
  • It is used in pigments, paints, inks, and many other items
  • It is white…

Fun Facts - Titanium Dioxide

Titanium Dioxide. It’s what gives white frosting its white color… AND your white DTG ink. Titanium Dioxide is used extensively in paints, inks, and even food products. It is very versatile and makes your job of printing black shirts easier.

Do NOT try eating your inks. That would be bad. We just thought you’d like a Fun Fact about DTG.

RTP Apparel Side-by-side comparison

No Pretreatment vs RTP Apparel Garment with Image Armor Technology

We wanted to show you EXACTLY why you want to use the RTP Apparel garments that utilize our Image Armor pretreatment technology. This is especially true for a white T-Shirt. We’ve heard from many DTG’ers the question – “Why pay more, or a premium, for a white T-Shirt when you can purchase these shirts for $1.50 or less”?

RTP Apparel side by side print against a standard T-Shirt


Taking a Closer Look

When the same design printed on the same printer with the same exact settings is printed on a “standard” shirt vs the RTP Apparel shirt – the answer is obvious. The color saturation and brightness the Image Armor infused garment is starkly better in comparison to the “standard” t-shirt that many people utilize just because the “standard” shirt is “cheaper”.

The image detail will be increased significantly due to the fact that RTP Apparel shirt holds the ink better and “in place”. This means that your colors will look better (yellows will look more yellow and not “muddied”, blacks will be black, and reds more vibrant) and the lines and edges of color will be much sharper in contrast to the non-DTG T-Shirt.

Another final qualifier is that the T-shirt will look better for longer. RTP Apparel utilizes the Image Armor technology in the shirts. This means most end-customers of the RTP Apparel shirts will experience a better looking print for a longer period of time. The wear and durability of your shirts will help result in happier customers who’ll come back for more.

You can get more information on RTP Apparel and sign up at the RTP Apparel Queue for these revolutionary DTG engineered T-Shirts – all made possible by Image Armor.

Using Image Armor ULTRA with Brother OEM White Ink


Over the past several months we have been testing the Image Armor ULTRA with Brother’s white OEM ink. We wanted to present our findings with the industry.

In the past, we really did not effectively endorse using our Image Armor ULTRA dark shirt pretreatment with Brother OEM inks. However, in our most recent testing we found that there was virtually NO difference between the results of using Brother OEM pretreatment or Image Armor ULTRA Dark Shirt Formula.

We found that ULTRA gelled the white ink just as quickly and effectively as the OEM pretreatment.

Take a look at the picture below.


Photographed at the same time side-by-side, are you able to tell which is Brother pretreatment and which one is Image Armor ULTRA pretreatment? Although it is very difficult to discern any difference between the two prints on your computer screen, there is one that looks slightly better than the other (to give you a hint it is not the OEM). Click on the image to get a larger view to see the actual full results labeled at the bottom of the photograph.

We used the same shirt for each print – the Spectra Tees 3100 series black shirt. While using different pretreatments, we did apply the same exact amount and cured the pretreatments the same exact way on a Viper XPT-1000 pretreatment machine. Even the print itself was exactly the same. Below you can see our settings for the above print.

Brother White Ink Print Driver Image Armor PT

The Highlight was set to 7 while the Mask was set to 5. The shirts were printed immediately one after the other.

After printing, the ink was cured on a Hotronix manual heat press at 356F for 35 seconds using light pressure.

As cane be seen in the photo above, there was no real visible difference between the OEM pretreatment and using Image Armor ULTRA. This makes the ULTRA a great choice for Brother printer owners looking for a good alternative pretreatment that is ready to use – no mixing required.

If you have NOT tried Image Armor ULTRA yet, we want you to give it a try for FREE. This link will take you to a page talking about our Image Armor LIGHT Shirt pretreatment formula, but by filling out the questions and clicking that you use white ink we will also send a free quart of Image Armor ULTRA.

If you are not familiar with Image Armor LIGHT shirt formula for CMYK prints this pretreatment alls for printing on all types of fabrics from polyester to 100% cotton garments (for CMYK prints only). We know you’ll be amazed at the results or we wouldn’t be giving these samples away for free.

So, if you are looking for an easier to user pretreatment that requires no mixing, give Image Armor a try. You can find a dealer near you on our PURCHASE page.

DTG White ink on Black Polyester

Flashback Thursday – White Ink Printing on Black Polyester


Many people have been asking about white ink printing on black polyester. This is not really new as Image Armor posted this article over a year ago on our webpage. We’ve been printing white ink on black polyester for well over a year… figured a FLASHBACK THURSDAY was in order since many people have been inquiring about it again.

Black-Polyester-White-Ink-Promo-graphic-web-based-1024x711Updated 3:10 p, 9/3/15   2:08p 9/8/15

Image Armor, LLC is proud to announce that in an industry first for Epson re-purposed printers we have achieved white ink printing with superior wash fastness on black 100% polyester fabrics. Previously there were serious dye migration and wash issues associated with trying to print white ink on black polyester fabrics. With Image Armor’s new E-SERIES DTG Inks for Epson re-purposed printers and our ULTRA pretreatment we’ve created, and are still perfecting, the process to now make this a production oriented process for ANY Direct to Garment printing shop.

In the past you’d have had to either screen print or use a Cad-Cut type material to do dark polyester fabrics. The incredible ink properties of the E-SERIES DTG Inks allow for incredible stretchability as well as adhesion even to synthetic fabrics such as polyester.

We will outline this process for everyone so that they can achieve these results on their own utilizing their own DTG equipment. The two main things that are needed are the E-SERIES DTG inks and the ULTRA Formula pretreatment.

The Process

Picking a good polyester shirt is the first step in successfully printing black polyester. We utilized the Sport-Tek ST340 for this specific test, but are currently testing a variety of other polyester shirt makes, styles and manufacturers. This is a cationic dyed polyester shirt which means the process used to dye the shirt to the color desired happens at a lower temperature. For us that means less dye migration when heating to cure the ink. However, we are still testing other polyester shirts and dye processes because the Image Armor E-SERIES inks cure in 35 seconds or less which definitely helps the process of mitigating the potential for dye migration.


Pretreating is relatively straight forward like any shirt. We applied 32 grams of Image Armor ULTRA pretreatment. However, higher amounts could be applied up to 40 grams or so. The shirt was then heat set but here’s where we deviate from the standard  pretreatment heat setting process. We set the heat press to 356F and set the pressure so that when we lower the heat press platen onto the garment that there is just “contact” with the shirt – no pressure period. Due to no pressure, the pretreatment will take longer to steam off and “dry”. Instead of the standard 35-40 seconds you might end up doing two 30-35 second presses. Make sure to utilize a cover sheet during pressing but avoid teflon as it could potentially shine up the polyester fabric.

If you end up using too much pressure you will definitely see a noticeable area  or what is known as a “heat press mark”. Typically this mark is a definite, visible mark that looks like the fabric is melted slightly and will not wash out. This is why we utilize virtually no pressure on the fabric during the curing of the pretreatment.

Please note, that when you pull the shirt out of the heat press it may be extremely stiff. This is normal. If you allow the shirt to cool down, it will return to its normal “loose” fabric feel it had prior to pretreating.


The printing process is relatively straight forward like the pretreating process, however some printers and RIPs may be better suited for printing white ink on polyester fabrics than others. Loading the shirt onto the platen is a very crucial part of this process. You want to be able to thread the shirt onto the platen for optimal performance of the print. If your printer platen only allows you to lay the entire shirt onto the platen you will run into some issues with ink passing through the first layer of the shirt and depositing onto the inside of the back of the shirt. This happens because the weave of most polyester fabrics are not a super-tight weave leaving a lot of open air areas between the threads. DTG printer ink can not bridge this gap and thus the ink will just jet through onto whatever is behind it. In this case the inside of the back of the shirt.

One solution is to utilize a slip sheet in between the layers of the shirt however this can cause issues due to the amount of ink being deposited. The ink will soak the paper and cause it to swell and possibly bubble up, raising the surface of the shirt enough that you might run into a head strike. Due to the high concentration of pretreatment a head strike can quickly clog up nozzles in a print head and possibly leading to a replacement of the printhead.


A close-up of the printed shirt reveals the open mesh weave of the athletic polyester shirt. This makes the ink look pin holed or less white than normal due to the black of the shirt showing through these holes.

The main point is you want to lay down as much white ink as possible on the first pass for the underbase. You will need to apply typically more ink than on a 100% cotton shirt. How much white ink you can lay down in a single pass will be dependent upon the printer and the RIP. Some printers, like the Epson PRO series printers (i.e. 3880) will not allow as much ink to be deposited as say an Epson 3000 printer. You will have to do independent testing with the type of printer you have and the RIP.

Working on conjunction with the amount of ink the printer can physically lay down is the RIP. The RIP will also limit how much ink you can deposit. Polyester will require 1.5-3 times the white ink to achieve a great looking finished product when compared to a 100% cotton shirt. Of course, testing with your own equipment and settings will be required. Laying down too much white ink can result in the white ink not being “kicked over” enough and then when the CMYK is applied it will look great on the printer platen, but when you heat press the ink it will blend into the white causing a dulling and image clarity degradation. So, finding the optimal amount of white ink for your printer will take some testing.

You DO NOT want to deposit a lot of white ink on the second, or highlight pass. This is because all the pretreatment has been used up in kicking over the initial deposit of white ink. The addition of printing more white ink will result in a serious wicking of moisture and components from the ink into the surrounding polyester fibers. The ink will either “spider out” or create a halo around the image which may or may not wash out after printing.  Many times, when depositing a lot of white ink on the underbase, you will still get this halo effect. This will usually wash out in the first wash and is most noticeable on lighter colored garments.

We have found that certain colors of polyester, especially red and maroon will most likely still dye migrate during the curing process and even after the cure has been completed. This is something we are still working on, however it is still going to be an ongoing issue in dealing with our water based inks.

Again, the key to making white ink printing on black polyester is found in the characteristics of the inks and how they cure. The Image Armor E-SERIES inks cure at 356F for 35 seconds. This works in our favor with polyester fabrics due to the shorter cure time. However, with the amount of white ink deposited and a much lighter (just touching) pressure on the heat press, we still need to ensure that the entire ink film has the moisture removed AND gets above 310F. Use a cover sheet when heat curing the ink and after 35 seconds lift to let any moisture escape. You might also want to try two 20 second presses. Getting rid of the moisture is key and allowing the ink to achieve full curing status temperature. If you put your hand over the print just after releasing the heat press and you can still “feel” moisture coming off the print, it most likely is not done curing or dry. You will need to ensure a full cure, otherwise the print will start flaking off after just a couple of washes.

Some have asked about hovering or utilizing a conveyor dryer. Though we have not tested the conveyor dryer at this time, hovering a heat press does not seem to work really well. The inks will try wrapping around the fibers leaving “cracks” in the colors resulting in a less than desirable print.

Again, we do not want to utilize pressure on the heat press to avoid the heat press mark. These don’t really wash out because we’ve altered the fabric with excessive heat and pressure. You DO need to ensure that you have enough pressure though to help accelerate the curing of the ink…it is like a dance and you have to find the right combination of steps to make it all work properly. Test, test, test.

Also, make note that the shirt will come off the heat press and as it starts to cool, will become very stiff. Do not worry. In our testing the shirts returned back to normal flexibility with little to no hand on the shirt after 10-15 minutes.

We would highly recommend washing the garment prior to wearing obviously as with any DTG printed shirt. However, the wash characteristics are extremely favorable due to the way we formulated the E-SERIES inks. Other than regular washing techniques suggested for the specific fabric, we really do not have any other requirements for good washing. As long as the ink is cured it will wash extremely well. We tested our shirts in the extreme of washing – hot water during the wash and high heat during the drying of the shirt. For optimal results warm to cold water washing and hang drying of the garment will result in the longest life of the shirt and print.

Due to the nature of the E-SERIES inks we have been able to achieve really good results while printing on black 100% polyester fabrics. In fact, some look as good or better than screen printed designs and could easily pass for standard screen printing. There is still a lot of work to do to perfect this process, but we are making great strides to achieve an industry wide, easy to accomplish task. We’ve only been able to do this with the Image Armor inks and not any other brands within the Epson re-purposed printers. So, you no longer need to be confined to just cotton shirts. Let the power of the E-SERIES inks open new doors and profit opportunities for your business.